We're not in Africa anymore Dorothy

Wednesday, March 4, 2015
OK, Dorothy isn't with me but Nancy is.  We are in Faversham, Kent, England.  We have a beautiful room in the Sun Inn, originally built in 1349.  Yes, 1349.  As a Canadian it is hard to even imagine 1349, but here you see this kind of history everywhere you turn.  It's in the cobblestone streets, in the residences that have withstood centuries of wear, and in the churches where people mourned and buried their dead-marking the graves with sad missives carved in stone in the 1500s.  It's a different world than Africa, and Nancy and I are both grateful for that.  The pace is slow here, the weather crisp, it's what we need.

How did we get here from Africa?  It's a good question.  A long time ago I started researching our family tree, and Faversham is the heart of our father's tree.  I have walked the street that my great grandfather, Horace, walked as a child and stood on the porch of the house he lived in when the 1881 census was done.  Down the street from the Sun Inn, at 1 West Street, is where my great great grandmother was living in 1841.  I've walked to the Faversham creek where, no doubt, my ancestors came to relax and play in their childhood.  And perhaps, just maybe, I have sat with Nancy and shared a night cap in the same pub as Horace or Samuel or Julia did over a century ago.  Nancy has been wonderful, traipsing through graveyards (grid pattern splitting up works best) looking for the markers that will tell me more about my ancestors, she's been very successful to date and we still have one more day to go.

So this isn't Africa.  Am I missing Ghana?  In a way I am.  I miss the people, and the new adventures that one anticipates will be around every corner.  But that's looking back now, and I'm looking forward to getting on the plane on Friday in London and coming home to see my family and friends.  It's been a long trip and I'm thankful for this little town that is rejuvenating and relaxing, and for the chance to walk on the soil of my forefathers.

 

You're Not Pretty When You Cry

I hate goodbyes.  They are so sorrowful and really difficult to deal with.  Most of the coaches just got on a bus to Heathrow, they are disbursing to different parts of the world to go live the lives they left behind when we started this journey.  And it is a journey.  I hugged Jackie, Laurie and Katherine-it is their first journey to Africa, and I remember what it was like last year saying goodbye.  They are going home with stories that will touch the hearts of coworkers and friends, and they will be thinking of coming back next year.  I hugged Liam and Larry, gentlemen that they are, their lives forever changed because of the women they were forced to live with for the past fortnight.  And Louise, she has kept me sane and in good humour for the past two weeks, how do you say thank you for that?  You don't, you just give hugs and pleasantries and then you cry.  At breakfast this morning we were chatting about what we were doing today.  Some were leaving, others were going to enjoy some sights this city has to offer.  A couple were thinking of checking off "Phantom of The Opera" on their bucket  list, something that we did on Saturday. Some are going to see Buckingham Palace, Westminster Abbey, Trefalger Square. But nobody is doing what Nancy and I are.....when they asked us we were unique.  We were the only ones that could say,

"We are going to Faversham."

I know, I can almost see the blank look in your eyes.  It is the same look that those around the table gave us this morning.  Deer in the headlights.  In the late 1800s Horace Bloxham Hawkins, my great grandfather, made his way across the ocean from Faversham to settle down in Winnipeg with his lovely wife Bessie.  I am going to find my roots.  I am going to stand on the soil of my forefathers, wander the streets they wandered over a century ago, and hopefully find where they were laid to rest.  The journey ended this morning when the coaches started to say goodbye, and now my new jouney, however short, is about to begin. 

We are going to Faversham.  I am going with my illustrious partner from last year, Nancy, who is "along for the ride,"    If you think you had a blank look on your face when you read that line you should see the looks Nancy is getting.  She happily describes splitting up to cover more ground in the graveyard, she has a plan. 

So now dear readers, I have to take my leave.  I am going to find the house Horace was raised in, and the house that his father, Thomas, was born in.  Hopefully there is a story in Faversham.  If there is I will be sure to let you know.

What's right is wrong, and left is right

This isn't a physically stuck in Africa.  This is a mentally stuck there, I think very similar to last year, only last year I could hold my breath and hope that I did a good enough job that CCA would be able, in good conscience, to invite me back for a second year.   this year is the end of my two year commitment so now there's a real possibility that I may never set my feet on Ghanaian soil again in my lifetime and that is cause for reflection.  We have arrived in London for the debrief.  The Ghana CCA and Irish coaches have had a wonderful day, thanks to Louise for dragging us around London for 12 full hours of unbelievable sites.  We toured Westminster Abbey.  I can check "See Phantom of the Opera at the place it began" off my bucket list.  We did The Tube.  We walked in the rain together.  Nancy used the umbrella to protect my Phantom program from getting wet inside its protective plastic bag.  We are now nicely fitted in our hotel rooms, with hot water and what seems to be unlimited power.  I got to message Sandy tonight with no interruption of wifi.  I should be delighted.

OK Louise, which way?

I'm not.  I wish I was, and perhaps it is the jet lag, perhaps it's just the emotional toll of a couple of weeks involved (but not in) someone else's shoes.  Whatever this is I'm not delighted to be "back".  Yet.  Remember, for those of you who have been reading the blog, the story of "don't tell a single story"?  Well, I want to tell you the other side of that story of Africa, of Ghana, that you don't hear every day.  And maybe you will understand why I may not be as delighted to be out of Africa as you would hope that I would be.

There is the welcoming spirit of (everyone I have met) Ghanains.  "You are most welcome," is a phrase we heard over and over again every day.  I woke up in Ghana yesterday.  I heard people welcome me, in a village, in a store, in a market, they are the most welcoming people I have ever met.  Now, please, please please, do not take this as an affront to London residents (because I truly believe that this would happen if I were displaced into Toronto, or into Los Angeles, or into Saskatoon....) but I haven't gotten that welcoming feeling here.  Today as we strolled towards the underground (Tube) station we ran across our fellow CCA coaches from Uganda and Malawi who were making their way to the hotel.  It was a reunion.  On the street.  There were a lot of us.  We were hugging, we were chatting....

#CCAcoaches meet again!

And we were in somebody's way.  The lady with the umbrella bumped up against me, and as I was about to say "I'm sorry" in my Canadian-raised way she looked at me as she passed and said "You have no right to block the sidewalk!" and kept walking.  Again,  it could very well be jet lag, but I wanted to be back in Ghana at that moment, because I know I am very welcome, even if I am in a crowd blocking the street.  It happened again on the Tube escalator, I apparently was on the wrong side and was blocking those that wanted to run up the people mover.  It wasn't enough that there was nobody to my right and enough room for a fairly large person with a suitcase to get by me on that side, I was told to move (after which Liam mentioned to me that "they won't think twice about running you over," and I wished I was back in Ghana.  

Although I'm going through a little culture shock (again) I have to mention the biggest learning (or path to learning) that I have about the similarities in the two cultures.  Even though, in Ghana, they drive from the left side of the car, which for me is right, and the Londoners drive on the wrong side of the car which is right, and we are always taught to look left and right before crossing the street, the right side is the same as the left side driver when it comes to pedestrians in an unmarked/jaywalking area.  The pedestrian is wrong.  Period.  Liam tried to teach me that last year.  I'm still not getting it.  Liam tried to exhibit it on our way to the hotel from the airport, just the right being right and the left being wrong, or the back seat driver position in the front seat....

Look, no hands!

I have to chalk it up to jet lag.  I had a wonderful day with wonderful people, in a wonderful city that has a rich history and beautiful sites....but I'm missing Ghana already.  Tomorrow morning is our debrief, maybe that will put everything into perspective for me.  For tonight I'm just thinking that the right is wrong, and the left is right, I'm not too sure which way to look crossing the street unless I'm staring at Liam or Louise's back and just blindly following...and I've had a beautiful journey so far.

Can I describe this day.

Nope.

This has been the most incredible experience today, from morning to night, from work to relax....and there's no way anybody in their right mind will have time to read the whole thing.

Alfred picked us up this morning with a gift, credit union cloth, from our first credit union, St. Martin de Porres.  Credit union cloth is something to be treasured, and each of us has a bolt of it to make into a treasured moment of our time there.  Ramseyer CU gave us some cloth as well, and I am going back to my seamstress sister (and seamstress sister from another mother) to figure out how to best honour these treasured items.

We are at Asawasai St. Theresa's CU today and yesterday.  A woman CEO.  A brilliant, engaged, vibrant woman.  In a man's world.  Another inspiration, quite like many of the women we have met on this journey.  Regina, the CEO, has been blessed with the ability to build and maintain relationships, and she (somehow) managed to convince the King of Asante that her members would like a plot (50 acres) of his land, but could not afford it outright.  The King agreed to a payment plan, and not only did he take the payments, he deposited them with her credit union!  It was exciting to see her open the Indenture yesterday, it means the land now belongs to her members....and the next step is building infrastructure and individual homes.  Like I said, another amazing woman...with a capital "A".

Regina, another inspiring woman

Regina took us around her community on foot today, it is apparent that she is respected in this area.  She took us to another CU, Asawasi Presby, which was a terrifying jaunt across some streets away.  We met Joyce, the manager, another strong woman who we chatted with before she walked us half way back to St Theresas.  It was lunch time, and we passed by a permanent stall where there was a big stone oven and two men pulling out the most YUMMY smelling bread you have ever smelled.  Now, we have been warned not to eat anything off the street due to our poor stomachs but this was too much to resist.  First I just asked if we could take pictures.  Then the smell, oh, the smell.  Imagine your Mom's kitchen, close your eyes, you walk in from school and that smell....OK, we will take a loaf.  Two Ghc and 50?  We will take two.  You get a deal for two, only Ghc4.00.  That's less than a toonie for all you Canadians.  Oh, what a lunch!  Hot bread and unmeltable yellow spread!  It was a delight I may never experience again!

Remember the King?  The one who Regina got to sell his land on a payment plan?  He's out of town unfortunately.  We did, however, get a chance to see his palace, hear the incredible story of his kingdom, and tour the museum by his house today.  Too bad he takes the Golden Stool with him, we didnt get to see that, but I will tell you that story one day....

The day ended with a meeting of the Board and off we went with Alfred home for one last night at the True Vine.  We sat in our usual spot, and the owner was in there with another man and they asked us if we would take a drink with them.  Stop here, we could have said no [Daabi, daabi] but we decided to sit down.  This was one of those moments for Louise and I that you could sit back and reflect on "wow, what if we had said no?"  I can tell you because reflect I have done....

I never would have met the man called Kofi [born on a Friday].  I never would have heard his story about being a successful businessman here, friends with the president, when he became an enemy of the state and was arrested during the military takeover.  I could have been sitting on Facebook instead of hanging on the edge of my seat imagining what it was like as he spent time in jail, without a charge, was blindfolded and driven to a fake tribunal where he was sentenced to 18 years in prison.  Could have been eating my chicken and rice instead of hearing how he bribed a guard, fled to just inside the Ghanain border only to be caught again, then used his very last money for one last fleeting attempt at freedom.  Yup, I could have hung out with Louise [not a bad thing] instead of listening to how this man, exiled from the home he loved, rebuilt his life in London...children, now a granddaughter, none of whom wish to come back to the homeland he missed so much for over 30 years.  He says sometimes it is lonely, even with 4 children, because his heart and home are here in Ghana, but fate chose England to be his children's homeland.  I will post his picture when I can.  

How can Kofi be 80???

Because he represents, to me, the value of choosing to speak to a stranger rather than politely declining an invitation to chat.  This man will be 80 in January, I hope he lives to see his new granddaughter decide that she loves the country that her grandfather so adores.  He carries his tribal mark proudly on his cheek like so many people I have met here, and, rather than turning his back on the country that turned its back on him, he is back here....he followed his heart back to his home.

I miss home.  I am also truly thakful for saying "yes" instead of "daabi" to the invitation to a wonderful story tonight.  I wish I could have had you here with me, I did no justice to Kofi's story, but it was the end of another memorable day in Ghana, 

It's almost over....again

Friday, February 27 7:10 PM

I'm sitting here in the communal room with my partners, Nancy (from 2014) and Louise (this year).  It's hard not to get a little emotional just because of all the things these two ladies have shared with me over the last two years.  They are busy trying to pack suitcases, I've given up I know I am over and I will have to pay.  In 40 minutes we leave for the airport.  In a few hours I may never see this continent again (although, God willing, I will).  A few thoughts before I board the bus, and maybe a few more to be uploaded in London.  I'm emotionally exhausted from the day, from the week, from the trip.  The market today was a zoo, as soon as you step out of your vehicle 6 or more men are right there, they are all trying to sell you their wares and they will not let it go.  They won't give you any space and they follow and follow.  Now, I've been to Mexico and been to the markets there, but this takes the cake, it's nothing like anything I have ever seen.  They need to make a living, and they need to make money for their families, their shelter, their food, it makes me sad.

We get a 7 hour flight to reflect on our journey here, or sleep, whichever comes to you.  I'm going to reflect on the really impressive women that I have met here, ones that break the stereotype of what we may feel women in Africa are.  They are strong, they have their own ideas and they will continue on their own journey while I go home to mine.  Similar to Alice, who visited us from Kenya, I hope to hear from these women occasionally, and hear that their careers are progressing and that they are happy, healthy and continuing to be strong of mind and strong of spirit.  

I'm hoping that the images of Africa will stay with me forever.  I want to remember hiding from Alfred while I had a cigarette (tsk, tsk) and the look on his face when he came around the corner.  The look of the babies when they see our skin for the very first time.  The absolutely breathtaking scenery of this beautiful country....that I will miss for sure.  

Although "goodbye Ghana" is better alliteration I think I'm going to stick with "see you later," or "until we meet again...."

Hi All,

Sandy here.  Was looking at the stats for Debs blog and noticed that it has been viewed by people in 10 countries now.  Found it interesting and thought Deb would like to share.

Canada

Ghana

United States

Suriname

Germany

Mexico

United Kingdom

Italy

Russia

Uganda

Have a Great Day!

Lost In Translation

The Ghanain people are by far the most hospitable that I have come across in my travels thus far.  That being said, although English is the official language here there are over 70 tribal languages that are spoken.  Most are "mutually intelligible" according to my sources [Wikipedia] but we must realize that sometimes things may inadvertantly [or purposely] get lost in translation.  I thought, if you were kind enough to "slog through my blog" yesterday, with the visions of Debbie standing by the sea darkly reflecting on humanity, you may need a little humour to make up for it and maybe have you visit again.  So, instead of taking you through yesterday [which was a wonderful day at Ramseyer CU and the meeting with the full Board was fantastic] I will give you a few "faux pas" that have occurred to Louise and I over the weekend and tonight.

Firstly, you all know the story of ending up on a canopy walk instead of a slave castle...this is an example of purposeful rather than accidental.  Nancy and Larry's driver, Bright, listened to them when they said that we all wanted to do the Elmina slave castle Satrday and then, becase they had a shorter drive home, they wanted to do the Kakum canopy walk Sunday morning.  As near as we can figure Bright decided there was way more time to do the canopy walk on Saturday, and the slave castle Sunday AM.....it didnt occur to hìm that we planned it in such a way to avoid some severe phobias.....lost in translation, you know the outcome, I walked the canopy walk.

For a week or more now I have been thinking I am the center of the universe.  OK, Sandy caused this, but I walk down the street and everyone is calling my name.  DEBBIE!debbie!debbie!  I always turn around and smile although they don't seem to be particularly interested in me...and always seem to be saying my name with a little venom...Today I remembered to ask Alfred what my name meant in Twi.  He said it didnt mean anything, which clearly is disppointing to someone who is the center of [Sandy's] universe.  Then he got a good chuckle.  All those people calling my name on the street...."Daabi" is the Twi word for "no",  Burst my bubble.  Lost in translation.

Tonight, knowing that we should not anticipate anything on the menu for fear it isnt available Louise and I asked our friendly waiter, Fred, if the chef had any pizza [we have lucked out once during our stay].  Fred rushed off and came back saying no, there was no pizza, but he could get us one.  What a nice lad.  We told him around 6 PM to have it delivered.  Our other waiter, Michael, came up to us shortly after and asked us what we felt like for supper as the chef had two pizzas left.  We thought Fred had gone to Michael and talked to him about the pizza.  At 6 PM tonight Fred delivered the delivery pizza to our table.  About the same time Michael brought our pizza from the kitchen,,,,don't ask, we bought the wait staff a pizza for their dinner tonight...lost in translation.

Power outages are common here, tonight was no exception.  Louise and I had settled ourselves around the pool and were busy writing our report when the power went out.  Normally the generator kicks in at the 5 minute point, but it didnt this time.  I am a big subscriber to Louise's mantra "Dont let it in" [meaning eyes forward, it's all good] but when the giant bug landed on me I did let out a pre Africa shriek [but maintained my sense of humour]
Michael:  "Ma'am, have you both provided for the mosquitoes?"
Me:  "Yes Michael, we have blood."
Michael:  "Very good ma'am.  Thank you, all is fine."
Louise and I thought that was good crack, [here's your Irish saying for the day] and giggled a little as he walked away, assured we had provided for the mosqitoes.

The power outages are a little like camping, blackout conditions but the possibility of reprieve with a little light.  Now, the "light" is a segway as we had the best day of our skin turning into other's amusement today.  We were at our new credit union and we were taking a walk around the block to bounce some ideas around.  We walked by two older ladies, one was staring at us intently so I said hello.  She didnt answer, but held my gaze until we passed.  I felt that she was still looking at us so I stopped, turned around, and she was staring at Louise's legs.  She looked, laughed, then went on her way....lost in translation?  Louise has the perfect white skin like Delainey, but I have to admit, she does stand out here in Ghana.  She stops toddlers from crying and school children in their tracks, both of which happened today.

I can only wish I had that much attention....it will never be the same....."Daabi!  Daabi!" 

Elmina Slave Castle and Humanity

February 22, 2015

Canadian author, Lawrence Hill, penned "Book of Negroes" in 2007, for those of you who haven't read it this is a book that you cannot put down.  I'm prefacing this post with the fact that I have read this book (among others about the slave trade) and it may make me a little pensive in the writing, just like I was pensive the whole day today.  It could be that I was still reeling from actually doing the canopy walk at Kakum, but I needed a little time by myself last night.  I walked down to the ocean and stood and looked out over the vast expanse wondering if there was much difference from the look of the ocean in the late 1700s and early 1800s.  Probably not.  I could see Elmina castle (St. Georges Castle) in the distance, a place that best be remembered forever for the number of lives lost in it's stone dungeons and the number of lives forever changed as the slaves left their homeland through the "door of no return."  This was a powerful experience, one that I liken to Sandy's and my tour of Auschwitz in 2012.  So many souls left this earth in this structure, it's almost palpable as you walk through it.  Our guide told stories as we entered each area-here, there were at least 150 women, children and babies with four small pots in each corner to relieve themselves....here is where the governor stood as the women were brought out into the yard for him to choose one....here is where the men were thrown who tried valiantly to revolt-only left to die with no food or water.  It could be up to three months that these men, women and children sat in the filth of this place before the ship came to take them away.  To what?  Fates worse than death in many cases.  Three months.  The strength of the people echoes in the walls.

I'm reminded again how many times that humanity has been lost.  How many times people have turned a blind eye to something so utterly wrong....you can only pray for the souls and hope that you have the strength to not turn a blind eye in the face of a travesty like this.

Have fear....conquer fear

February 21, 2015

Last night was interesting.  Now, I want to let you know that this hotel we are in is very nice, and although there is no hot water you really don't need it because it's so hot.  I have a bathroom, a little balcony and a bed which is all I need.  I was in the bathroom last night getting ready for bed (excited about the coming visit to the slave castles!) when a little movement caught my eye.  There seemed to be something coming up the toilet.  I did what any good camper would do, I sat on the edge of my tub, interested.  A few minutes later up came a small snake....he looked at me, I looked at him, he looked at me.....I flushed.  Wow.  Something to laugh about, but my heart was pounding....looked like a baby, where was mom?  Why did he pick me?  Why Room 119?  Why tonight?  As I sat on the tub it appeared that he wanted to answer all these burning questions and he reappeared in my toilet again.  I bolted to the phone, called the front desk, and they told me "Flush it madam."  I came back in and looked at him, he was actually trying to get back down my drain (which I was relieved about) and I helped him do it.   If you love something...set it free.....he didn't come back.  My wonderful husband, forever the recorder of all occasions on his camera, had one question:  "Did you get a picture?"  No, honey, no....it slipped my mind.  I will try to do better next time.

    

Maybe I should have named him....

So, I'm not very good with snakes, kind of afraid, but those of you who know me well understand my paralyzing fear of heights.  Last year, on our free weekend, I was scared I was going to end up on the coast and have to go to to do the canopy tour at Kakum National Park.  I'm just not that brave.  Since Alfred couldn't get us to Elmina until Saturday noon (let me rephrase, Alfred was going to pick us up at 5 AM we said no), Louise and I decided we just wanted to do the slave castles and relax.  Alfred was fine with that.  Nancy and Larry met us there with their driver, Bright, and Bright had other ideas.    Off we go to the slave castles.  I never have a good sense of direction when it comes to the ocean, today was no exception, I was the only one not wondering where we were going (Bright turned away from the ocean, and we all know the slave castles aren't inland).  My blissful ignorance lasted about 10 minutes until Louise asked Alfred where we were going and he said "Kakum, you don't have time tomorrow to do this."  ALFRED!!  How could you?  How could our protector and our companion sell us out?

  

Guess I have to channel Abenna, my African name, perhaps she is better at rope bridges 40 m high cause I can tell you Debbie can't do it.  We get there and Alfred says, "I will wait for you."  No, Albert, no you won't YOU will come with us.  "Oh no, no, I will wait here."  Louise and I both go at him (she isn't totally OK with heights either)....Yes, yes, you will.  You are coming....then silence.  "I am afraid of high things."  What?  Ummmm....so are we.  So I guess you have to come with us.  Because we NEED you.   "You need me?"  That will do it every time.  Alfred is coming with us.

8 bridges
3 Lord's prayers
25+ "I'm scared" repeated rapidly for an entire bridge
15+ "I can't do this" again, rapidly in succession.
20+ "He said don't look down, so don't look down.  YOU LOOKED DOWN YOU IDIOT"

I videoed myself on the first bridge, just to hear it afterwards.  It's not pretty.  But I did it.  I beat my fear for once.  And I'm Debbie, I think I might have had a little Abenna in me today, but I'm Debbie and I can do a canopy walk!!!  POWER!!!!

February 19, 2015

“You’re as handy as a small pot.”  Apparently in Ireland this is quite the compliment.  Being not Irish it shocked me a little that Louise was comparing our driver, Alfred, to cookware.  I didn’t find it especially complimentarey, but Louise asked me what do you always reach for in the kitchen….OK…I get it.  Alfred went out today and got us more time on our phone, exchanged some money for us, then sat all day and waited for us.  At least I think he did, because he is never far from us.  

This was our first day at Ramseyer Co-op and Credit Union in a suburb of Kumasi called Adum.  It really looked and felt different than yesterday, there were larger, newer buildings and not as much traders on the streets.  There are banks and micro finance companies on every corner, it’s the Kumasian version of Wall Street.  Ken Yeboah, the CEO, is a young man full of great ideas to move his credit union forward and bring his members out of poverty. He is proud to display the visual reminders from where Ramseyer came.

The very first Ramseyer Co-op Credit Union 

in the churchyard

They are now in a larger space (OK, I thought I had a picture but will upload it Monday), three branches and they have a wonderful boardroom with the capability of video conference....and that's what we did!  I have been working on a project with a number of wonderful organizations to bring the wonders of micro financing to students in Alberta.  Today we launched that project, with a classroom in Queen Elizabeth High School in Edmonton, another in Bowness High School in Calgary, and Ken and I in Kumasi!  What a cool experience!

Ken talked about how a very small loan can help a woman move from "carrying the load" ( a term used for the women and men that walk on these dangerous streets with a load of goods on their head) to a "space" (meaning they take up a space on the side of the road, perhaps with a cart or table).  Another small loan may help the trader in her "space" move to a larger, permanent structure (what looks like a shed) that she can keep her goods in and lock up at night.  This movement forward helps people keep their children in school, and ultimately can break the cycle.  It was powerful to listen to him explain this.  And powerful to be able to participate in the launch of a program that hopefully will develop a higher level of social responsibility in some young minds.  

I wore my credit union cloth today, it's Friday and cloth day all over Ghana.  It's a time when you can walk down the street and identify a credit union member by the shirt or dress they are wearing.  My cloth is for the credit unions all through Ghana, and it has a saying "Join the Happy Family".  I'm glad I am a part of it.

I had a Vision

Today has been a day of admiration of leadership.  Leadership of the past, and leadership of the future.  It's been a day that has given me chills....probably because I know that I have met people that have shaped and will shape the lives of the people of Ghana.  And I am humbled to have been in their presence.

Readers, let me introduce you to Mrs. Deborah Serwaah-Asamoah.  She is the Credit Manager of St. Martin de Porres Co-Operative Credit Union Ltd.  Not only does she hold this post, she also oversees all 17 of their mobile bankers, and the operation of the mobile banking department.  She's young, only 30.  She's feisty.  She's got great ideas.  And she's a graduate of the CCA Women's Mentorship Program where she stayed not only in Ottawa but in Olds, Alberta for almost a full month away from this beautiful country.  Deborah is pictured in the mobilization centre for mobile bankers, she took us on a tour today and it wasn't until we were almost done that I fully realized the affect that these people can have on the lives of the "Traders" on the streets of Kumasi.  Mobile bankers go out Monday to Friday to their members, moving from shop to shop and street trader to street trader collecting, recording and encouraging further savings.  The traders try to save 10 GHc ($3 Cdn) per day in hopes someday to be able to get a loan to enhance their trade.  Deborah's team makes it happen.  She sees the future, and she understands her part in it.  She also respects the past.  So much so that the first introduction that Deborah makes to us here at the mobilization centre is Mr. Amoako, the founder of St Martin de Porres Co-operative.  "Mr. Amoako, please meet Abenna Debbie from Canada and Effie Louise from Ireland."  He says, and he means it, "You are most welcome."

He motions for Louise and I to sit down, and we do.  For some reason I feel like I am in the presence of greatness, so as we exchange pleasantries about where we are from, and why we are here, I am formulating a question that maybe will yield the answer to leading change....the answer to mobilizing thousands for the good of so many....we talk about our homelands.  We talk about his current role helping the mobile bankers with their member's loan applications.  We talk about how he founded the cooperative in his church, on Sundays, to help his parishioners save.  Then he came to the realization that there were more people, right outside the gates of this church, who needed to save their cidid as well so they opened it up to the community.  Then, in the moment the conversation lapses I jump in.  "Mr. Amoako, you are truly admired by many.  The credit union you founded has helped so many people.  Please, may I ask, what motivated you to start such a venture?"

He looked at me, moved his glasses down his nose so we were eye to eye.  I kind of felt like he was staring right through me.  "I had a vision."

I had this fleeting thought of how wonderful it was to meet these leaders today.

Then he waved his hand, there were members waiting to see him, and we were in their chairs.

St. Martin Catholic Church, home of the original St. Martin de Porres Co-Operative Credit Union

And I, dear readers, have too.  Leaders of the present surround me here in Kumasi, I cannot wait to see what tomorrow brings.

Obruni does it again

February 18, 2015

I made a baby cry today.  That’s not unusual, what is unusual is that it has taken me a full four days in Ghana to do so.  I can only imagine what it is like to see a bright white person (made brighter by the scorching sun) moving closer and closer to you speaking in a language you don’t understand….sorry little one.  I forgot how scary I can look.

We were at St Martin de Porres Cooperative Credit Union Ltd in Kumasi today.  I cannot believe how welcoming the Ghanaian people are.  Fred and Alfred (our intrepid protector and driver extrodinaire) arrived fashionably late and took us to the branch.  Everywhere you hear “you are most welcome,” and you think “yes, we are.”  I have no idea if the branch staff were watching through the window at the level of water in our bottles, but as soon as there was one more sip left in mine (and I was rationing because I had no idea where the bottles had come from) Monica appeared at the door with two more bottles!  I told her she saved me, it’s 32 degrees and the power is out (meaning no air con), I could have perished….she laughed.  The hospitality extends far beyond your imagination….Shakespeare, the Operations Manager, lost his father recently.  The funeral poster is up at the branch and he saw us perusing it.  Shakespeare is young, his father only 58, but he demonstrates the welcoming nature of this nation….he invited us to his father’s funeral, starting this Saturday at 4 PM and going all the way through Sunday night.  I was touched, impressed by his composure, and slightly relieved we already have weekend plans. 

Speaking of power, we met a young woman today named Deborah who participated in the CCA Women’s Mentorship Program a few years ago.  Many of you know that we hosted Alice Kosgei of Kenya in 2011, so I was intrigued and asked her about her experience and the highlights.  The highlights?  Snow in Banff.  Her experience?  The best in her life.  She carried herself like a woman beyond her 30 years, with confidence and determination.  She said that the program, and her time in Canada, gave her the ability to be confident in her decisions and gave her the motivation to continue her education.  I found it truly gratifying to hear about how she completed her MBA after being on the program, and that she recently was promoted to Credit Manager as well.  Alleviating poverty by helping people help themselves…..isn’t that what it’s all about?

Kumasi suffers from rolling power outages daily and today was no exception.  After a few good hours of gleaning information the power (and ac) was gone.  As the heat rose and it became apparent that we needed power to get to some information otherwise inaccessible, Louise and I “took lunch” with Alfred.  We had chicken.  He had rice.  Anyone out there surprised?  Louise and I have discovered a wonderful way of not leaving as much on our plates, we’ve started sharing one dinner between the two of us!  I remember vividly my mother's (and probably yours too) constant admonishment:  “eat what’s on your plate, there are starving children in Africa!”  I am IN Africa, and I dare any good reader to come here and try to finish what is on their plate.  I have determined that it is impossible.  Therefore, if it is impossible, and it makes you feel bad to not accomplish this task, improvise.  I sure hope Louise doesn’t like (and no Ghanain restaurant serves) haggis or brussel sprouts.  

Last night’s blog was sooooooo long (so was the day) and this one could be too.  Readers Digest version, visited main branch, two other branches, took an amazing drive to a meteor-created lake, toured the manager’s childhood village and his pig farm, watched how palm wine was made, wrote a report with Louise and now it’s time to sign off for the day.

Oh, Sandy, remember me promising you I would be safe?  Do you also remember that there are times you may have to step outside your “zone” because it would be an affront to not accept something being offered to you?  I tried a cocoa bean on Fredua’s farm, cut out of the shell, it was white and slimy and not that bad.  Then I tried real palm wine, right out of the plastic container under the palm tree.  Don’t worry, I’ll be fine.  And if I’m not Louise won’t be either.

Louise and Deb's Excellent Adventure

February 17,2015

Well, every travel story has to have its own little travel nightmare story right?  I was sitting up last night thinking about a couple of things that I realized I forgot to blog about, and thinking that this would be a great day to do so being that it is a travel day.  Now, if you have read “It’s Not Far”  from last year you will know that Nancy and I had a wonderful day getting to know our driver, Jude, on the 300 km journey from Accra to Kete Krachi…that took 13 hours.  Yes, 13 hours.  We had been on the road about 5 hours when we asked Jude how much farther and he said, “it’s not that far.”  Nope, only another 8 hours.  And 7 hills from the ferry to the credit union house.  That was a good story.  So you can imagine me thinking, “what am I going to blog about when we are FLYING the 200 or so km from Accra to Kumasi!  Nobody is going to want to read “it’s a plane!  it’s a plane!”  I should never think that way because this seems to be the inevitable when you think that way.

We wanted to make sure that we were at the airport in time for our 3:10 flight this afternoon.  We also needed to get SIM cards for our Africa phones. We thought we should probably leave around 11 AM to get to the airport for 1 because that was check in time.  We got a call from the front desk saying that our drivers would be there by 1.  We tried calling back, explaining that we needed phone cards and had to be at the airport by 1 to the front desk staff and they asked what time our flight was.  3:10….then we asked how long to the airport.  5 to 40 minutes was the reply ????  Yup, I heard her right.  5 to 40 minutes.  CUA called back saying that the driver would be there at noon instead so Liam and I stayed back with the bags while the rest went for a quick jaunt to the MTN store we saw on our Sunday walk.  I’m going to have to start bullet pointing this blog, just like “It’s Not That Far” because today, Kumasi is just as far as Kete Krachi.

-getting to the airport took an hour, not 5 minutes.  But it’s OK, we can check in at 1 and it’s 1.  

-Heather goes to the desk with her boarding card and the lady looks at her and says “Check in starts at 1.”  Heather:  “It is 1.” Lady:  “We will open in a few minutes.”  Heather comes back to us looking a little stunned.

-They open check in at 1:15, Liam and Heather get their boarding passes for Tamale, Louise finds out our flight is cancelled.  “Go over there to the ticket booth, they will give you tickets on the 4:00 flight” (obviously lack of communication as that flight is booked)

-over to the ticket booth where we stand politely in line as people jump ahead of us.  One nice man asked to get ahead as he wants to buy a ticket to Tamale, the flight Liam and Heather are on, “Sure, go ahead, we aren’t in a rush,” and when we told him why he shook his head in pity.  Oh, nobody knows how much pity we need!

-finally at the ticket booth, we say “our flight was cancelled,” she says “well go over to the counter and get a new ticket!”  Debbie:  “We were told to come here.”  Lady:  “No, go there.”   Off we go back to where we came from.  

-Louise goes to the check in counter where they tell her again to go to the ticket counter, but love her, she stays put until a nice young man comes to see what the problem is.  He takes her back to the ticket booth (remember readers, at this point we still think we are flying at 4….)

-Debbie waits with luggage, Louise waits at the ticket booth for nice young man.  Our eyes lock across the airport (it’s not that big, we are in the domestic terminal).  Louise shakes her head.  I lift my arms, palms up, Louise holds up 6 fingers.  Yup.  Now we are flying at 6 PM.  But not really at 6 because here they tell you your boarding time, not the actual flight time (that’s 6:30)

-Debbie, Louise, Liam and Heather head to the tent (the airport is under construction but there is a nice tent with air con for us to wait the 4 more hours).  We need to call CUA to make sure the person picking us up in Kumasi knows we are flying a little later, but nobody’s phone is working.  Heather: “Just go ask someone to use their phone, like that guy,”  Louise:  “Oh, I couldn’t.”  Debbie: “No, I couldn’t.”  Heather gets up and walks over to a random Ghanain, explains our situation, and he starts making calls.  There is no answer.

-Five minutes later the nice man brings his phone over, CUA called him back.  Explain the situation to CUA, all good!  Liam and Heather depart with hugs, they will be met in Tamale by Jude.

-sit, talk, sit some more, talk some more…sit, talk….these seats are not conducive to 3.5 hours of sitting.  Watch a giant thunderstorm come barging through, the tent has a few leaks but we stay dry.  We do move away from the metal supports, Sandy told me to stay safe.  Did I mention the tent is full of mosquitos?

-Yay!  it’s 4:30, we get to the check in.  I’m overweight.  Because my awesome zebra stripe carry on is WAY too big for the little plane.  So is Louise’s.  I owe money, she shows us the calculations-they are in kg.  Lady:  “you are 8 kg over”  Debbie: “But you made us check our carry ons, that’s 2x7.” Lady walks away towards the man that helped Louise earlier.  Louise leans over and says “She’s going to him, it’s going to be OK,” and she’s right, lady arrives back and says we don’t need to pay!  That’s Louise-2, airline-0.  (She was staring at him the whole time with her “I dare ya” look.

-Debbie:  “Wow, you have good karma!”  Louise:  “Watch what you say….”  (insert Twilight Zone foreboding music here)

-it’s 6 PM!!  Boarding time!!  Louise:  “What gate?”  (Look at boarding pass, it says “Gate: *), the man who let us be overweight is standing there so Louise asks, “What gate are we?”

-Man:  “Didn’t you hear the announcement?”  Louise:  “What announcement?”  Man:  “Your flight is delayed an hour.”  Louise:  “No, we didn’t hear any announcement, what is the delay?”  Man:  “Look outside, we can’t fly in this weather!”   Then he asks her if she speaks English! (Not that this thought hasn’t crossed my mind a few times)  Starting to get a weird “have I been here before?” feeling…..

-sky blackens, winds whip, it’s 7 now but still no rain.  Liam and Heather like their hotel in Tamale that they have been at for several hours now.  Airline comes around with water and cookies, which is good because Louise and I (expert packers we are) thought we would plan ahead for any delays and packed granola bars and nuts…..in our CARRY ONS.  *sigh*

-flight was delayed, nice people kept coming around and telling us we were boarding in a few minutes.  We finally get on the plane at 7:50, and taxiing down the runway the pilot comes on to warn us there might be some slight turbulence ahead….

-we’ve arrived in Kumasi!!!!  Fred, the regional manager and Alfred, our driver and protector met us and they are super nice!  They take us to the hotel (which by the way has sporadic internet so I apologize for maybe not so many pictures…it’s a little after 9PM, we need food….Fred and Alfred stop the kitchen from closing and get us some chicken and rice and all is good (insert sigh of relief here).  We met a wonderful lady, Mana Konadu, and her daughter Maxine at the bar/restaurant…Mana Konadu is a seamstress and is changing the hotel curtains.  

-Fred, Alfred, Mana Konadu and Maxine have made this journey worthwhile, can’t wait to get to work tomorrow!

Signing off at 1:30 AM from an eventful and exciting day in Ghana…..at the True Vine Hotel, Kumasi

CUA House and away!

This morning we spent time in the outdoor restaurant (well, we basically took over two full tables) with our laptops, reports, iPads, and several (dozen I think) Wifi passwords to take care of all the different devices we were using.  We found ourselves with all sorts of questions and excitement about the different credit unions we are going to be visiting, and, in some cases, not much information.  Water was flowing freely this morning, we bought the restaurant out of "large water" (1.5 litres) and then had to buy "small water" in double quantities!  You underestimate what 33 degrees feels like at 70% humidity.  Funny though, clouds come up, wind picks up and you say to your waitress "Feels like rain," and she laughs.  This isn't rainy season, I guess there's not much hope of a reprieve except Louise and I are flying to Kumasi in the morning!

This afternoon we met our driver who will be with us for the duration, his name is Bright.  His actual name is Kofi (and I will get the rest because I need him to write it down).  Each day of the week for each gender has a different name....Kofi is a male, and he was born on a Friday.  He has another name that goes behind Kofi, but we need to spend some more time with him to get it right before putting it on the internet forever.  According to the internet I would be "Abenaa Debbie" because I am female and born on a Tuesday (don't worry readers, if you don't know what day you were born and wish you knew your Ghanain name there is an endless source of information at your fingertips!).  I will research this and get back to you.

CUA house in in the core of Accra, and this is where we did a briefing today.  "You are most welcome" is the greeting here.  The general manager of credit unions in Ghana spoke today at length with us, and peppered throughout his talk was "you are most welcome".  For us it seems strange to say "thank you" after "you are most welcome" but it only takes a couple of times to get into the swing of things again.  We feel welcome, and we are itchy to get to work with our credit union partners here!

I've decided to entice you into coming back to read more.  Every blog will have a special "Irish language edition" that will feature how little I know this lilting language.....here is your first, sitting in the restaurant over lunch:

Debbie:  I said something about Galway.  (note: "gal" is easy to pronounce right?  So Galway is too, am I not correct?)
Liam:  Learn how to pronounce it!
Louise:  It's Golway (note: soft "o" like in olive oil)
Debbie:  But, you know that's an "a" right?
Larry:  Yup, it's silent.

Now readers, you can travel to see the lads in Galway and have a wee bit of fun while you are there.  Signing off with a picture of all of us at the CUA House (head office).....flying to Kumasi tomorrow, cannot wait!

I didn't position everyone, so please no set up comments!

Front: Liam, Debbie, Heather

Back: Larry, Louise and Nancy (trying to hide)

On the steps of CUA house after our briefing

Close your eyes....and decipher

Wow!  We are in Accra!  What a heyday!  Where do I begin?  Well, like all good stories it should start at the beginning right?  Problem is that I'm not sure where the beginning of today really is, is it Alberta today?  Ottawa today?  London today?  Accra today?  I guess it doesn't really matter.  It is what it is.  7 hours from Toronto to London, 4 hours layover in London, 6 hours London to Accra, and I think I figured it out that it was only noon in Edmonton so I was awake.  Actually, still awake...2:45 AM in Accra!

We won't get into too much detail about the airport...suffice it to say that by the time we found our bus to go to the hotel we had a minimum of five Ghanains "leading" us to the bus, all who were expecting to be tipped! We landed at 8:20 and got out of the airport at 10:30, and firmly ensconced in the hotel by 11.  There are six of us here, Nancy (my esteemed partner from last year), Liam and Louise from Ireland, Heather from Toronto, Larry from Saskatchewan  and me...so we decided that a quick Ghanain style pizza was in order.  Here are a few tidbits for future stories.....

Larry told a great joke tonight at the airport.  A wonderful Ghanain man was chatting with him and knew the general vicinity of SK as a province. Larry said (ROTFL) "Yeah, it's where you can watch your dog run away for three days and still see him." I laughed so hard.....as I am sure those of you who have had the privilege of driving through SK would too....but in Ghana, we are told, dogs may not be the pets we see them as back home.   In Ghana, Larry may need to revise his jokes. In Ghana, being able to see your dog run away across a vast expanse of flat land is incomprehensible....

For this of you who know what Orange is, here's my Orange moment...speaking of incomprehensible....  I am honoured, excited and genuinely pleased to have a new partner this year.  (Wait, there's a tie in, be patient).  Her name is Louise.  She hails from Galway, Ireland.  And I need to learn how to lip read.  She is the FASTEST talker you have ever met (don't worry, we have two weeks together so I will get video).  And I think she is fantastic.  I just wish I knew what she was saying.  (SEE, SEE the tie in??)   It's OK, because she was a little worried about how well Nancy and I got along last year, so now we both are going to be overcompensating...but how many times can a Canadian say "pardon me?" without offending our partner?  Well, you are so lucky, you get to find out the answer to this and many other questions in the next two weeks at the same time as me!  A debate to come, Louise believes I will be talking Irish by the end, I think she'll be talking Canadian.....

Liam, Heather, Nancy, Larry and partner Louise

in Accra

I Wont Tell A Single Story

Its February 13.  I'm on a plane about to cross the ocean, stop in London then fly to Accra.  When I post this it will be Valentines Day (love you Sandy) which is why you need to know the real date. 

I know,  you are awaiting stories from Africa.  Me too, believe me.  It was training day at CCA today and just like last year I had an "ah hah" moment.  Last year it was a phrase, "culture eats strategy for breakfast," and oh, how I have used that one this year!   Today we were shown a Ted Talks video.  It was a well spoken woman from Nigeria, and she spoke about not telling a single story. 

I know.  What?  Here is my take (because each of us takes something slightly different right?).....don't tell one story, you need to tell many.  If I tell you one story from Africa and it is about someone suffering in poverty, then I dont tell you another story about how cooperatives are helping this person OUT of poverty then your image of Africa is frozen in that first story.  Powerful.  If you have a few minutes take a peek, especially if you like telling stories like me. 

http://www.ted.com/talks/chimamanda_adichie_the_danger_of_a_single_story?language=en

HOW TO POST BECAUSE I WANT TO KNOW YOU READ THIS!!!
Click the comment, use "anonymous" and then just add your comment AND your name.  I know, not the most user-friendly ever, but it does work.  People commented last year.

Africa? Why?

• Last year at this time I had a number of well meaning friends who, very concerned, asked "Why?  Why do you feel the need to do this?  At your age?" 
• 
  
•  Now, as a returning coach, and by far a more committed member of the cooperative movement, I feel equipped to answer.  "Why not?"  No, my dear friends, I will not bring ebola back to Canada (Ghana has never had a confirmed case.)  I will, however, bring back stories of how the credit unions have changed the lives of every day people.  Is that enough "why"? 
•  If not enough then, perhaps I can bring back enough pride in the cooperative movement to motivate one member who has never voted before to embrace their right in the democratic process. 
•  I'm also going to take you, my dear readers, with me on this adventure.  I want you to feel the red dirt beneath your feet and smell the market as you walk through with me.  I want you to stare into the eyes of the child who is too frightened to touch your skin, and into the eyes of a father whose mission in life is to put his children through school because he may be able to do something his parents could not.  
• In a few days I will @CUinAfrica and I hope you will join me.  

Kumasi! Kumasi! 18 days and counting

Another adventure is about to begin.  At first when I heard where the coaches were going this year I had a fleeting moment of "Oh no, what will I write about?"  All 6 coaches going to Ghana (four of us from Canada and two from Ireland) are going to major urban centres.  Now that I have spent some time researching I know this is going to be another amazing adventure.  Louise, my partner from Ireland, and I are going to Kumasi.  Want to compare two cities?

Kumasi is the second largest city in Ghana with an area of around 265 sq km.  In that area about 2 million people reside.  Our fair city of Edmonton is approximately 635 sq km in area, with around 820,000 residents.  Sounds like its going to be easy to meet LOTS of people!  We will be visiting three credit unions while we are there, and hopefully we will be able to help them grow, prosper, and help their communities. 

I hope you will join me on this wonderful adventure, and I will try my best to create images in your mind that will put you right there with me.

http://www.ghanaweb.com/GhanaHomePage/geography/kumasi.php