It's a palace!

Blog Jan 23, 2014

“It’s a Palace!”

We’ve been at the Kete Krachi guest house for two nights, it is now time to move on to Tamale for a night.  You, the reader, are getting the hang of this when I say we asked Jude how long it would take and he said “It’s far and the roads are bad.”  (A reminder, far is 2-24 hours in Ghanain time).  Yesterday the Board asked to meet us for our presentation at 10 AM, when we told Jude he shook his head and made a clucking noise.  This, we have come to know, is “that’s not good, so I will fix it.”  A while later, in a foreign language heated discussion Jude tells us the Board will meet us at 8:30AM instead.  Well, that is good!  We meet with Daniel, Joseph and the entire Board of Directors of the credit union and we are literally high-fiving eachother as we are leaving.  I think we’ve made a small impact that may eventually help this credit union and we are proud!  Jude hurries us into the truck and off we go on another one of those roller coaster roads (that you will see pictures of soon!)  

I’m becoming used to the view from the air conditioned truck, driving through rural Ghana.  Village after village, women pounding cassava (or shea nuts), naked or poorly clothed children playing in the dirt, fires going with water boiling for the next meal.  The dirt here is red, it permeates everything.  My sister embroidered a handkerchief for me that I opened when I got here, it’s stained red from wiping my face and neck all day.  Your skin, clothing, and shoes are covered in red dust as are the leaves of the plants along these endless roads.  And the villages are red like the road.  We sit in the truck, knowing that there is no way to help every person that you see out these windows and, truthfully, not knowing if they believe that they need help.  These villages do not just dot the landscape, they ARE the landscape.  You do not go more than a kilometer without seeing women and children laboring with something on their heads-buckets of water, grass to fix thatched roofs, yams or other edibles….I was shocked when this journey began, but now I just wonder about their story and how they feel about their life.

Typical village on our journey

We stop across the road from one of these villages.  Jude tells us that his boss wants him to pick up some yams from this village but they are supposed to be sacked and ready at the roadside stand.   It turns out they aren’t, and Jude exhibits the most anger that I have seen (which really amounts to a few words in his tribal language then an explanation that the yams aren’t ready and we have to go to the village.)  While the men all gather around a giant pile of yams and start hucking them into the bed of the truck Nancy and I get out to take a look around.  There are several children coming up the road (again, calling “Obruni, obruni!”  We are smiling as they come.  A little one, no more than two years old, is following the children down the path.  He sees us and screams, and turns around moving as quickly as possible back towards the main part of the village.  The older children run to catch him, and bring him to see us, but it doesn’t really end well.  I hate the idea that I may very well be the subject of many of these little ones’ nightmares in the coming weeks. 

Obruni skin, pretty scary.

Tamale is the second largest city in Ghana in terms of the land area.  It reminds me of a little less impoverished Accra.  As I stand beside the main road leading in I watch a young girl leading a blind woman from car to car at the traffic lights.  When the light turns green she leads the woman to the median just to move back out when it turns red.  I think that she is school age, maybe slightly younger, but she must not be able to go because of money.

We arrive in Tamale by supper time, and we are staying at the Modern City Hotel.  Now, because of our past experience at CuTrac and at Kete Krachi we probably do not have our hopes set very high.  But it’s a palace.  Truly.  OK, Pre Africa it could be a two star, potentially lower.  But it’s a palace.  We are shown to our rooms, they have a blanket on the bed!  There is a curtain on the shower (and very little mould and dirt!)  When you turn on the tap you get hot water!  There is a restaurant that serves more than banku, fufu and chicken and rice (although my heart was set on banku tonight).  And they have white wine!!   

Now, there’s a funny thing about Ghanain restaurants, or at least those that we have come across.  They truly want to please you, so much so that you may endup getting a “yes” when it really a flat out “no”.  Take dinner tonight.  You have white wine?  Yes.  Is it chilled?  Yes, I can put it in the fridge.  Where is it now?  On that cupboard.  OK, please chill it.  25 minutes later, is the wine ready?  Yes.  It’s chilled?  Yes.  Francis, lovely young man, brings it to the table.  The bottle is luke warm.  And it’s not white.  We ordered a Star.  Nancy asked about the pizza, and do you have pepperoni?  Yes.  Is it home made?  Yes.  She orders it.  The pizza comes, there is no pepperoni on it.  But there is peppers.  Let’s eat, it is what it is.  Cheers to the palace called Modern City Hotel!

It is What It is.

Jan. 22, 2014

Well, when we went to our rooms last night Nancy turned on her air conditioning and her fan and then we chatted for a few minutes.  I looked at the head of her bed and asked “What is that by your pillow?”  Four black bugs.  And, I’ll ask again, what do you think we did?  It’s a good thing we had just finished a Star beer, Nancy tossed the bottle cap in the middle of them.  They didn’t move.  Then we looked up at the walls, there was “a few” more of them hanging out.  We looked at eachother and Nancy just said, “You’ve been preaching that it’s like camping…..it is what it is.” And with that we said our goodnights.  Nancy slept with her head at the foot of the bed so she could leave room for her new friends.

Prayer call, dawn again.  Getting used to this.  We met our first credit union manager today.  Daniel spent the day with us, answering our questions, furiously writing things down when we mentioned something.  The Board Chairperson, Joseph spent some time with us as well as Vice Chair (Madame Mary) and Secretary (Madame Mercy).  The credit union is small, has many challenges ahead, but the people we met today are a determined group and we hope, with some of our recommendations, they will turn Kete Krachi Credit Union into a viable part of their community. 

At about 10:30 AM Daniel turned to us and said, “When would you like to take beer?”  Nancy and I were shocked.  “Not during a work day!”  Daniel made a disapproving noise and we continued on.  Not long after Leticia came in with four bottles of Guiness.  “No!  No!” Nancy said.  Joseph told her “Don’t worry, it’s soft,” and Nancy explained we do not drink while we work.  He repeated that it was soft, and we started laughing.  They have malt Guiness non alcoholic here, it’s their pop.  It’s our nemesis, so thick you almost have to chew it.  We choked it back (we are already looking unthankful with all of the food we leave on our plates here.)

At 3 PM it was a day.  No more work.  Now we relax.  I thought of Graeson when we sat down at the plastic table, in plastic lawn chairs with Joseph and Daniel.  Grae didn’t particularly care for those in Puerto Vallarta, I’m sure this would have startled him with the poor village on the other side of the chain link from where we were.  We talked for hours, found out that Joseph had one wife and two kids, Daniel had two wives and five kids.  We discussed plural marriage and how it is frowned upon in Canada, discussed politics in Ghana and then Joseph asked us how we felt about the treatment of homosexuality in Canada.  The discussion was close to my heart, and very interesting to see where another culture is at with acceptance.  Uganda, where some of our fellow coaches are, just stopped meting out a punishment of death for this.  We moved on to another subject some time later, but not before I asked each of them, “If one of your children came to you, holding their heart in their hand, and said ‘Father, I am gay,’ what would you say?”  In the end I’m not so sure they are that different than us.  Your children are your children, one word cannot change our love.

This is getting long again, sorry L but speaking of children…Leticia brings her 16 month old son, Nhyria (when I get strong internet there will be a photo of them here).  Nhyria is breast feeding and this is a little difference I thought was intriguing…when he is hungry someone just brings him to Leticia and she feeds him.  In front of the manager, guests, Board members, it is treated as nothing here. 

Sandy spoiled my last two memorable moments for the 22^rd.  So I will just recap them by asking you, “What’s on your bucket list?”  It may take a long time, if at all, that I may forget the look on Jude’s face when he gave us his.  That his children grow up and be better off.  That he may someday have his own place to lay his head.  What more could a man ask for? 

I’ll post some pics of the guest house here soon, but imagine if you will rooms that are indoors but access to them isn’t.  Kind of.  Hard to explain, check back in a few days.  Nancy and I were heading to bed and we got to the topof the outdoor stairs and a big moth was flying around.  The bugs here are big.  Well, some of them at least.  The cockroaches are.  I digress.  So this moth hits a wall, then another wall, then beelines for my skirt and lands on it.  Pre Africa Deb isn’t here.  I shake my skirt to dislodge said moth, thinking about how heavy it is.  It doesn’t come out.  I shake harder.  It doesn’t come out.  So I grab a good chunk and whip the material.  Plop.  That’s the sound a bat makes when it lands on the floor (take note just in case at some point you require this piece of trivia…”plop”)  We looked down.  Yes, it’s a bat.  Nancy says I did a little Newfie jig as we walked down the hall to our rooms.  We looked back before saying goodnight and it was still where it plopped.  Sorry everyone, I didn’t have my camera.  But our mantra is and has been….

“It is what it is.”

"Not Too Far"

January 21, 2014

It’s been a few days of no internet at all so let’s catch up.  There are too many stories, I’ve seen too many things, and I hope that you can close your eyes (or look at some photos if I am lucky) and be here with me if only for a few moments.  I miss home, but not ready to come home.  And I’ve started to label some reactions and thoughts as “Pre-Africa” as in “Pre-Africa Deb would have been screaming.” 

I really thought that Jan. 21 would be a boring blog post, a five hour drive to a little village on Lake Volta, Kete Krachi.  I was wrong.  I journaled 5 pages of this day, walk through the day with me, hour by hour.  Then maybe I will feel your presence J

4:45 AM:  The prayer call on the megaphones somewhere in the village.  Almost time to get up, our driver (Jude) wants us in the lobby at 6.

5:50 AM:  Nancy and I find that the humidity is so high when I open my tablet and try to swipe to open an app, there is too much condensation on it.  Give up on posting something.

6:05 AM:  A guy we think is Jude loads our stuff onto the truck and says we need “take breakfast”.  Yeah, me too, I thought we were taking it with us.  We sit and eat.  Beans, bread, eggs, meat, too bad no yam balls.  Those were awesome.  Not too worried, it’s only a five hour drive according to Clara, the coordinator.  We really don’t need to be in a village by 11….

6:50 AM:  That wasn’t Jude, it was the regional manager, we didn’t know!  We’re off!  It’s only 316 km away.

8:50 AM:  We are just reaching the outskirts of Accra, the city we started in.  I will not complain about traffic ever again.  But the sights I saw!  Pride of your home-and business-people out with broom sweeping off the red dust from the front of their shelter.  Then sweeping the garbage from the red sand. And, at first glance a tire recycling place, on second glance shelters made out of tires with whole families together sharing breakfast. 

11:00 AM:  Must be getting close, good thing as Nancy and I need to “relieve ourselves” .  We are driving through a thick forest area and a large man steps out of the bush, machete in hand.  It gives one a little start even in rural Ghana.  Jude explains they are getting palm wine (which perked Nancy and I right up!) would we like to try some today?  Yes, in a restaurant with a toilet please. 

12:00:  Hmmmm…it’s been 5 hours.  No sign of the ferry we need to go on yet.  Jude hits the brakes, backs up on the road, and tells us we are getting palm wine.  At a roadside stand.  In a coconut bowl.  We pay 1 GHc (50 cents) to find out that although we like wine, we do not like palm wine.  Tastes like liquid pork.  Well, what I think liquid pork would taste like.  A few bugs soaking in the alcohol too.  Oh well, I tried it!

12:30:  Nature calls.  Jude finds a Guest House, asks the owner if we can go in.  He’s awesome, excited to have guests I think.  Welcomes us, shows me to a room with the toilet and leaves.  I flick on the light, there’s a dead mouse floating in the toilet.  What do you think I did?  Nope, that’s Pre-Africa.  I “relieved myself” then flushed.  Water is scarce and people are poor here.  OK, I did jump into the truck and grab hand sanitizer right away.

4:30 PM:  Still haven’t made it to the ferry where Kete Krachi is “just on the other side.”  This is concerning as it may be another “Not that far” (which can mean between 2-24 hours) and “far away” (which means essentially the same thing).  At least I don’t have to use the toilet.

5:00 PM:  Finally!  The ferry!  Look it just left.  Take out the camera.  Children are hawking goods from tubs on their heads.  “Obruni, take my picture!!”  OK.  Next thing you know the whole beach full of children working is now standing with Nancy and I.  “Obruni, take me home with you,” says a girl about 11 or 12.  “Why?”  “Because my life would be so much better.” My heart is aching and I miss my kids.

5:45 PM:  We made it across happy and in one piece!  Not sure about the babies we scared on the ferry.  There is a certain age here that they look at your eyes and you say “Hi” with a smile and then they look at your arm and then physically try to get as far away as possible.  We traumatized a couple of them on the ferry L but now it’s not far!!!

6:45 PM:  It’s five hills (up and down each) between the ferry and Kete Krachi.  You will need to know this when you come here, because your driver will tell you “It’s not far.”  We did tell  him to maybe measure distance in hills and not “far” for us.  He won’t.  And I’m fine with that.

6:50 PM:  Arrived at the credit union guest house, happily surprised we have running water!  There’s a few minor issues (a few bugs, missing toilet seats, no blanket on the bed, air conditioning is sporadic but there) and they are feeding us dinner and welcoming us!  Fish and rice, Way too much food, but we tried.  When it was all over Nancy looked at me and quietly said, “Thanks for taking the head.”  We had a good laugh.  I know there’s a Pre-Africa Nancy who might have not tried it, but she’s not here.

Tomorrow we meet our first credit union.  No driving involved, the credit union is on the main level of the CU guest house. 

Bucket Lists

It's Sandy again!

I did forget one thing that Deb mentioned but it is a cool thing.

After a day of working with a Credit Union Deb and her partner were sitting outside of the branch on white plastic chairs discussing bucket lists.

A lady from the branch came out when it closed and talked with them and the discussion turned to bucket lists and what they were.  Now, many of us have bucket lists.  Go to Africa, dive with sharks, learn to fly a plane or backpack thru Europe or whatever your fancy is.

They asked the lady from the branch if she had a bucket list and she said "Oh yes, I have a bucket list as well.  I want to raise good children who grow up to have a better life than me"

They asked her if she had anything else in her bucket list and she did not.

I find this interesting. I know that everyone I know wants to raise good children who are successful but I wonder how many people, when making a bucket list, put that at the top of the list let alone make it the only thing on it?  Or do we just assume, because of our relative wealth as a "First World Country", that our children are entitled to a better life and make our bucket lists about us as individuals as opposed to about making our children and community better?

A little preachy perhaps but something that just struck me when Deb and I were talking.

Don't worry.  Deb's regular programming will resume soon!

It's Deb, and he's close (husbands don't always listen to exactly what is said, they just get the real meaning which is why we love them so much!)  So this is the spoiler alert for when Nancy and I were chatting with Jude, our driver (a him by the way) last night after dinner.  We did ask him about his bucket list.  He did answer that he wants a good life for his children, and that he wants a place of his own to lay his head at night.  It was a "bring me to tears" moment.  One of many I'm experiencing these days.  Thanks honey, I might be able to take this blog on again, Tamale has wifi!!!!

My conversation with the LOVE of my life

Hi all it's Sandy.

Deb does not have internet access for a few more days (maybe) but she does have a cell phone and even though where she is there is no infrastructure per se, surprisingly enough she does have cell service so we just had a nice conversation and she has asked me to post a quick note for her.

-They arrived in Kete Krachi yesterday after a 300 km drive over red dirt roads which took 12 hours.  They were told it would take 5.  Ghana time I guess.  Seems like Mexico time on steroids.
-Not much wildlife so far except for a constant stream of baboons which are apparently like deer here when driving down the highway.
-She has been eating well although she is not always sure what she is eating.  I guess when your really hungry it does not matter what is put in front of you.  Especially when people who have little go to the trouble of making food for you without you even asking for it. Thankfully no stomach problems so far.
-It is hot hot hot.  She is constantly sweating which mixes with the red dust from the dirt to make everything she wears stained red.
-The people of Ghana are extremely welcoming and friendly to the "Obruni" or white people or ghosts.  Many want pictures with them except it seems for some small children.  Apparently the Obruni can be frightening to some.
-She has not seen another white person (except who she is travelling with) since leaving London.
-A bat got caught in her skirt yesterday.  I have been told to tell everyone that she did not scream.  She calmly shook it out of her skirt and it left.  She seemed quite proud of this calm reaction!  I have to admit I would have lost a bet on this one.  I totally would have bet the farm that she would scream and freak out.
-Where she is it is primarily mud huts with tin roofs.  She has been navigating open sewars.
-Their driver is awesome and is taking very good care of them.  Even going for water when they arrived at their accommodations and found out they had no water.  What substitutes for water is apparently a non alcoholic guiness like drink.
-She sounds so happy and relaxed I have to admit I was a little surprised.  I was expecting to hear complaints about the heat and while she does mention it she hasn't been negative about it.  Deb hates it when it is too hot so this is another surprise.
-Her bed is just a mattress with a (stained) sheet.  No pillow, no covers.  She made herself a pillow by wrapping her clothes inside her jacket and then putting that in a bag.  Good for her.  Making do with what is at hand.  I wonder if she learning something from the Ghanan's as well as sharing her knowledge to help them?

Deb will hopefully have internet access sometime in the next few days.  While she is travelling between locations she will update the blog so that when she has internet again she can update with what I am sure will be far better stories and pictures!

You Will See

We are at the Credit Union Training Center hostels tonight.  I am happy to report I have warm water, but no wifi so you wont see this blog post tonight.  For the record, it is Sunday, Jan. 19, in case the date is wrong when I get a chance to upload!

Many people followed the Adventures of Alice, when a wonderful lady came from the credit union system in Kenya to Canada with CCA to participate in their Women's Mentorship Program.  When I contacted her to tell her I was coming to Ghana her first line was "Debbie, you will see many black people there, and you will love visiting Ghana."  She's right so far. 

A group of us decided to take a walk down the street this morning (after a great breakfast of fried mashed plantains with a spicy coating) and hot dogs (OK, in Ghana that's sausage).  I truly felt I could be anywhere until we left the hotel compound and set out down the street.  The first thing to remember (we were warned) was to be careful of the open sewers.  No problem!  They are fairly easy to step over, and in many cases they have two by fours across them like a briďge.  We just had started out and a group of men on bicycles, wearing uniforms, rode by.  Imagine, on a busy street, these men calling "Good morning!  Welcome to Ghana!"  Not one, not two, but at least 15 men, all welcoming us!  (Now, someone is going to be sarcastic and say we were a bunch of hot women, but no, it was a mixed group and the youngest is a young man of 25).  People are genuinely friendly here in Accra. 

Our CUA (Ghana's apex of credit unions) driver got us to the center this afternoon (at speeds that I would have to say make any man I know back home look like a granny) and it is in a partly residential area.  I came outside after dropping my luggage off and children ran up shouting "Obruni, Obruni!", they literally ran into our arms and hugged us.  We took their pictures, which they love, gave them some candy and now we are friends for life!  The children here seem so happy.  We walked through the residential area and saw kids playing with everything, my favorite:a cardboard box tied to a string.  The only time we saw an unhappy child is when James spoke to the really young ones LOL!  James is a young Irishman whose voice (skin color, height, size) may be overwhelming for a young Ghanian child.  He did send one screaming to its siblings today when he asked the (baby-probably less than 2 years old) if he wanted his picture taken.  The boy stood and looked at Ja

mes for several seconds before screaming and running down the road.  James will get over it, he's far more crushed by the mom who was scolding her child and pointed at James and said "He's going to take you away to Nigeria and beat you!". 

Not sure how I am processing this experience.  On one hand abject poverty is everywhere.  The children have barely any clothes, there are people hawking wares at every stop light, residences we have seen are mostly shacks.....and yet the people, they still have a smile and a wave for a stranger, the children are laughing and playing in the streets, and somehow, some way, they are getting by with so little. 

Look honey!  I'm eating Fufu!

We saw this little guy on our morning walk.  So sweet.  

The view from the market on our morning walk.